Louise-Ann and our friend Graham, from HARMONY-88 shared a birthday
celebration, both being born in March. The photo was taken at a
delightful little resort on Damon Island, near Madang, PNG.
We stopped for a day at Dreiger Harbour, the site of a large regional
school. Once they overcame their shyness, a bunch of the boys swam out
and populated our swim platform. Only later did we find out that one
of the little buggers stole a small part off of the boat.
These boats are ubiquitous throughout the area. Designed and built
by the Japanese, they are also built in the islands under licence. It
is not uncommon to see these boats going between islands far out to sea.
This frigate bird is not chained or clipped. The Hermit Islanders feed it and it is happy to hang around.
It would appear that this young lad on the Hermit Islands would like to fly away, while the bird at his feet is content to stay.
This is a leaf-construction school house, typical of leaf buildings
in the area. They are made from bamboo, local wood and sago palm
leaves. Note the old propane bottles used as bells; this is very common
throughout the area.
Here is Louise-Ann with a tame cockatoo in Kelanua Village.
We were very fortunate to stumble upon the champion dance troop of
the entire south pacific at Kelanaua. They put on quite a show.
Here, some villagers at Kelanua pose with some of their ceremonial
drums. The style of drums varies greatly throughout the region.
It is not at all uncommon for children to run around naked until
puberty, especially in the outlying villages. Their clothing is
generally shorts and T-shirt, usually cast off by or traded by passing
yachts. Here some Kelanua children pose in their dugout canoe. While
hopelessly poor by our standards, the children in these villages are
generally well adjusted and very happy.
This outdoor market is typical of those in outlying villages. In the
towns and larger villages there are usually shelters, comprising some
poles and a roof.
The young lady dancers of Kiriwina village put on a good show for us.
While not as professional as the men of Kelanaua, they were more
graceful.
The dancers of this region generally perform to hand-made drums and simple string instruments.
Lae, PNG, boasts a nice new yacht club, inhabited by most agreeable
members. We spent several evenings with them drinking beer and eating
huge Aussie style hamburgers.
Here we are tucking into the huge Lae Yacht Club Burgers. It is a
good thing that the club has a nice cafe on the site, as the town is
reputed to be a bit lawless, especially at night.
These bilum bags are carried by men and women alike. Men usually
carry them over their shoulder, while women often carry them on their
backs, slung from their foreheads. They come in many sizes; the one in
the photo has a child inside! The traditional ones are made from yarn
spun on the thighs of the women, which is then dyed and knitted.
This "boat club", really just a small bay, is where we spent five weeks repairing some of AKAMA's equipment.
This is one of the ways that the villagers travel between islands.
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This store on Nuna street caught our eye, as it bears our family name.
We gathered most afternoons at the boat yard in Madang (PNG), to
watch the sun go down, tell stories and have a few drinks before dinner.
There are still many missionaries working the islands. They often
travel by boat, taking parissioners with them. Here is a typical
missionary boat in PNG, overloaded to the hilt with passengers and
cargo, including a live, trussed pig!
The locals on the Ninigo Islands eschewed the use of banana boats and
outboard motors, after they discovered that their primitive lifestyle
would not support the running and repair costs for such western
accoutrements. While they still maintain a few banana boats for long
distance inter-island trips, it is not uncommon to find these sailing
canoes miles out to sea.
Here some young girls pose in front of their school. Despite the
primitive environment, the school and village were spotlessly clean and
the children, as can be seen by the beaming smiles, are happy.
Day after day, we marvel at the glorious sunsets that mother nature treats us to. Here is one taken in Ninigo atoll.
We often visit the local village when we anchor in a bay. Here we
are hosted by Solomon (hand on chest) in his Ninigo Islands village.
The buffalo is the usual beast of burden in PNG.
Here is a man in Sailum Village hand-rolling a cigar from locally-grown tobacco leaves.
The married women of Sailum Village, hearing that we had been
entertained by the men and young ladies of two other villages took it
upon themselves to show us their moves. Such cultural shows are one of
the few ways the villagers have to earn hard currency.
Most villages in the outer islands of PNG have no electricity or
running water. When there is running water, it is usually from dammed
streams or springs, and only a few faucets are provided for communal
use. Here in Sailum Village, the children enjoy a cool drink.
This headstone testifies to the fact that things less than 100 years ago were much more primitive and dangerous.
While the Japanese were only in the islands for about two years, they
were extensively dug in and fortified, as this shore gun shows.
To see some of the old fortifications and guns, we had to slog our
way up the side of a small mountain. Here is the view from about half
way up to the top.
Louise-Ann poses here with the carver and her new bowl. The wood is
turned by hand and then intricate patterns are carved. The entire bowl,
including the handles on the bowl and the lid are made from a single
piece of wood. No joinery, nails or glue is used.
We bought a beautiful hand-carved bowl here in Tami Island. This
craft show was put on just for us and the few boats with us. The
carving in PNG is more rustic than that of the Solomon Islands and less
primitive than that of Vanuatu. That said, some pieces take a month or
more for a craftsmen to complete.
This woman spins traditional yarn from pandanus palm leaves and
weaves it into these traditional bilum bags. Note the tattoos, also
traditional, and the winning smile. The red is caused by betel nut
juice.
This downed allied bomber was found in the jungle not far from the
airstrip. Many other bits of military wreckage can be found throughout
the area.
Madang, PNG has huge colonies of flying foxes (fruit bats). The locals knock them down with slingshots and eat them.
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